Fig. 25. Unidenti昀椀ed artist. Tunic. Arica(?), Chile, 15th–early 16th century(?). Camelid 昀椀ber, feathers, 35 ⼀攀 × 54 ⼀挀 in. (89.5 × 138.4 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of John B. Elliott through the Mercer Trust, 2000 (2000.160.25) grid pattern, small fringes fall from four folded tabs on workshops, such as the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales the front, while an impressive longer fringe dramatically del Cusco, founded by Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez in 1996, completes the lower edge. On a garment from the south- preserve, revive, and extend regional weaving practices. ernmost reaches of the empire, on the coast of what is Ancient Andean weaving also had an indelible impact now Chile, the familiar checkerboard pattern is expressed far beyond Peru and Bolivia as examples were collected, in vibrant hues of deep red and purple (昀椀g. 25). Enlivened studied, and published in Europe, becoming a springboard by a band of small stepped frets in white and yellow below for inspiration for modern artists. The beginnings of sci- the uppermost row of squares and by woven multiband enti昀椀c archaeology in the mid-nineteenth century spurred borders at the sides, the tunic was 昀椀nished with four small a boom in collecting and the development of national bundles of feathers near the neck. museums, the scale of which is staggering by today’s Despite the disruption and devastation of incursion standards. For example, Berlin’s Königliches Museum für and colonization by Spain in the sixteenth century, weaving Völkerkunde (today’s Ethnologisches Museum) acquired traditions continued following the fall of the Inca Empire multiple private collections in the decades around the turn and into the modern period and present day. While certain of the twentieth century, including one from Hannover types of garments, such as the black-and-white checker- textile merchant Christian Theodor Wilhelm Gretzer com- board tunics, stopped being produced, others evolved prising some 33,000 ancient American objects, many of 20 according to changing tastes and needs. Indeed, many them textiles. weaving traditions have remained strong, particularly in Information about ancient Andean textiles also 19 circulated through illustrated publications. Notably, the southern highlands of Peru and Bolivia. Today vibrant 24